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Gemstone Jewelry

Gemstone Jewelry Buyer's Guide

Gemstone jewelry offers an extraordinary range of colors, styles and price points. Sapphires, rubies, emeralds, garnets, amethysts, aquamarines, topaz, opals, tourmalines, pearls and many other gems can create jewelry that is very different in appearance, durability and value.

Before buying, it is important to understand exactly what gemstone you are considering, whether it is natural or laboratory-grown, whether it has been treated, how durable it is, how well it has been cut and set, and whether the seller provides clear documentation and a reasonable return policy.

Unlike diamonds, colored gemstones do not share one universal grading system. Quality and value can depend heavily on the individual gem variety, making informed comparison especially important.

Know What Gemstone You Are Buying

Start by identifying the gemstone species and variety. Ruby and sapphire, for example, are both varieties of corundum, while emerald and aquamarine are varieties of beryl.

Do not rely only on a color name such as "blue stone," "green stone" or "birthstone." The sales description should clearly identify the gem material being sold.

Natural, Laboratory-Grown or Imitation?

Determine whether the gemstone is natural, laboratory-grown or an imitation. A laboratory-grown gemstone can have essentially the same chemical composition and crystal structure as its natural counterpart, but it was manufactured by humans rather than formed in nature.

An imitation or simulant may resemble another gemstone in appearance but is a different material. The seller should represent these distinctions clearly.

Ask About Gemstone Treatments

Many colored gemstones are routinely treated to improve their color, clarity or appearance. Treatments may include heat treatment, oil or resin filling, fracture filling, irradiation, diffusion, dyeing and surface coating.

Some treatments are widely accepted and stable, while others can affect value, durability and care requirements. A treated stone is not automatically a poor choice, but the treatment should be disclosed so the buyer can make an informed comparison.

Treatments Can Affect Care

Heat, steam, ultrasonic cleaning, chemicals or prolonged light exposure can affect certain gemstones or treatments.

Before buying, ask whether the jewelry requires special cleaning or repair precautions.

Color

For many colored gemstones, color is the most important visual quality factor. Consider hue, tone and saturation as well as whether the color appears attractive and reasonably even across the stone.

The most desirable color differs from one gemstone variety to another, so avoid assuming that darker always means better.

Clarity

Colored gemstones can contain inclusions, fractures and growth features. Acceptable clarity depends greatly on the type of gem.

Some gems are commonly expected to contain visible inclusions, while others are more often seen with high transparency. Look for inclusions that affect beauty, transparency or durability rather than demanding that every gemstone be flawless.

Cut

A good cut can enhance color, brilliance and overall appearance. Examine the stone for pleasing proportions, symmetry and polish.

Extremely deep or shallow stones may hide weight, appear smaller than expected or show unattractive dark or washed-out areas when viewed face-up.

Carat Weight and Visible Size

Carat is a measure of weight, not visible size. Two gemstones of the same carat weight may appear very different in size because gem materials have different densities and because cutting proportions vary.

Compare millimeter dimensions as well as carat weight, especially when shopping online.

Price Per Carat Can Change With Size

Larger fine-quality gemstones may be considerably rarer than smaller stones of the same variety. As a result, price per carat can increase as size increases.

This effect varies widely by gemstone, so compare stones of similar type, quality and size rather than using one price-per-carat rule for every gem.

Match the Gemstone to How the Jewelry Will Be Worn

Durability is especially important in rings because rings are frequently exposed to impact and abrasion. Hardness measures resistance to scratching, while toughness describes resistance to chipping and breaking. These are different properties.

Ruby and sapphire are relatively durable choices for frequent wear. Other gems, including emerald, opal, tanzanite and many organic gem materials, may require more careful handling.

A gemstone that may be vulnerable in an everyday ring can still be an excellent choice for earrings, pendants, necklaces or occasional-wear jewelry where it receives greater protection.

Consider the Jewelry Setting

The setting should hold the gemstone securely while complementing its color and shape. Prong settings can expose more of the stone to light, while bezel and halo designs may provide additional protection around vulnerable edges.

Pear, marquise and other pointed shapes may benefit from settings that protect their tips. Fragile or highly included gems may also benefit from more protective designs.

Inspect Prongs, Bezels and Mountings

Make sure the stone sits securely and that prongs are even and substantial enough to protect the gem. Check for loose stones, bent prongs, rough edges and poor alignment.

In multi-stone jewelry, inspect how well the stones match in color, size and overall appearance.

Choose the Metal With the Gemstone in Mind

Yellow gold, white gold, rose gold and platinum can influence how a gemstone's color appears. White metals can create a cool, neutral contrast, while yellow or rose gold can add warmth.

Consider metal purity, durability, maintenance and personal preference. If the jewelry will be worn frequently, pay attention to the strength of chains, clasps, prongs and other components as well as the beauty of the center stone.

Matching Stones in Multi-Gem Jewelry

In earrings, bracelets, necklaces and multi-stone rings, examine how well the gemstones match in color, tone, size, cut and brightness.

Perfect matching is not always necessary, especially in intentionally graduated or multicolored designs, but obvious unintended differences may affect the look and value of the jewelry.

Gemstones With Diamond Accents

Many gemstone jewelry designs use diamonds as accents. When comparing such pieces, look at the quality, total carat weight and setting of the diamonds in addition to the center gemstone.

The advertised total carat weight may include many small accent stones, so read the product description carefully.

Consider an Independent Laboratory Report

For an important or unusually valuable gemstone, an independent gemological laboratory report can provide useful information about the gem's identity, whether it is natural or laboratory-grown, and detectable treatments.

For certain gemstones, laboratory reports may also provide an opinion about geographic origin when it can be determined.

Report vs. Appraisal

A laboratory report identifies and describes a gemstone. An appraisal assigns a monetary value for a particular purpose, such as insurance.

They serve different purposes and should not be confused.

Review Photos and Measurements

Online photographs may be enlarged and lighting can affect apparent color. Review several images or videos when available and compare the actual millimeter dimensions listed by the seller.

Remember that computer and phone screens can display color differently, so the gemstone may not look exactly the same in person.

Read the Return Policy Before Buying

A reasonable inspection and return period is especially valuable when buying gemstone jewelry online. Find out how long you have to return the item and whether shipping, insurance or restocking charges apply.

Also determine whether ring sizing, engraving, customization or special orders make the item nonreturnable.

Buy From a Seller Who Clearly Describes the Jewelry

Look for a seller that provides a clear description of the gemstone, metal, dimensions, carat weight, treatment status when applicable, return policy, warranty and shipping procedures.

For substantial purchases, review the seller's business identity, customer service information and independent customer feedback. Use a secure and traceable payment method, and confirm that valuable jewelry is shipped by an appropriately insured method.

Understand Care Before You Buy

Gemstone care is not one-size-fits-all. Some stones tolerate routine cleaning methods well, while others can be damaged by heat, steam, ultrasonic cleaners, chemicals or sudden temperature changes.

Ask for care instructions appropriate to the specific gemstone and any known treatment.

Periodic Jewelry Inspection

Settings, prongs, clasps and chains can wear over time even when the gemstone itself remains in good condition.

Periodic inspection by a qualified jeweler can help identify loose stones, worn prongs and other problems before a gemstone is lost.

Gemstone Jewelry Buying Checklist

  • Identify the gemstone species and variety.
  • Determine whether the gemstone is natural, laboratory-grown or an imitation.
  • Ask whether the gemstone has been treated or enhanced.
  • Evaluate color, clarity, transparency and cut together.
  • Compare millimeter dimensions as well as carat weight.
  • Consider hardness, toughness and suitability for the intended type of jewelry.
  • Inspect the setting, prongs, bezels, clasp and chain.
  • Check how well multiple gemstones match when matching is intended.
  • Review the metal type and purity.
  • Consider an independent laboratory report for an important gemstone.
  • Read the complete return, refund and warranty policies.
  • Confirm insured shipping for valuable jewelry.
  • Use a secure and traceable payment method.
  • Learn the proper care requirements for the gemstone and any treatments.

Buy the Gemstone Jewelry You Will Enjoy Wearing

Gemstone jewelry should ultimately appeal to you. Beauty and personal preference matter, but an informed buyer also considers identity, treatment, durability, craftsmanship, documentation and seller policies.

The best value is not necessarily the largest gemstone or the lowest advertised price. It is a piece of jewelry whose gemstone, setting, quality and care requirements fit your expectations, lifestyle and budget.

Learn More About Gemstones

Gemstones Guide   |   Diamond Buying Guide   |   Jewelry Care